
Ahhhh, my first foray back home in the Bronx. My brother has an apartment on Hughes Street, and we agreed to meet for dinner on one of my favorite streets in all of NYC, Arthur Ave. This, THIS, ladies and gentlemen, is the real Little Italy. The one with the crazy grandmothers and their evil eye. The place where bread disappears before it can even be placed on a shelf. A place where English speaking minorities gather with consternation, gazing in shop windows with dead, skinned animals hanging by their hooves. Yes, this is the Bronx, my Bronx, and this is where, according to renowned food critics, the best pizza in New York City currently finds a home. So of course, as a foodie myself, I had to try it, right? Right.
When I think of pizza, I think of simplicity. Good sauce, quality mozzarella, fresh basil, and soft but sturdy dough, made with NYC water. I think of Grimaldi's in Brooklyn and coal ovens. I think of Friday nights as a child, coming home from basketball practice to a warm, thin, white cardboard box that held pizza. A great word for a child, two z's put back to back. Fun to write, fun to eat.
I was NOT disappointed. Ok, well, I was slightly disappointed, but then everything was redeemed. We decided to order mussels as an appetizer. The sauce was watery and overly fishy, and a lot of of mussels were invisible. Shell upon shell turned up empty. My brother and I were pretty darn hungry, so we dipped our Tuscan (no salt) bread into the fishy-runny substance anyway, soaking up the garlic and tomatoes and "help-I'm-drowning-in-this-ocean-puddle-that's-been-in-the-sun-for-too-long" taste. The $8 glass of Chianti helped wash it down and was actually spectacular. One of the best restaurant wine-by-the-glass experiences I have ever had, actually. But then, THEN, the pizza came.
Pizza. Say it with me. It's fun :-D
My brother ordered Caprese. Simplicity, like I said, was valued in our household. Fresh mozzarella circles, perfect cherry tomatoes that transport you back to rolling Italian hills, spicy arugula, and soft, chewy, oven-roasted-to-perfection dough with just enough of that burned oven taste.
Now, I have to be different. So as I scoured the menu, I came across something so unheard of in my food repertoire, that of course I had to give it a whirl. It's the very last pizza on the menu, and a specialty of the house. It's called La Cirilo and, at first glance, does not sound like pizza at all. Knowing that I could have a slice of my brother's more traditional order, I decided to go for it. Ok, it's true, my arm didn't need much twisting...
The dough of the gods stays the same. The tomato sauce is substituted a butternut squash puree with cream of truffle. Mushrooms are added for good measure, and dollops of fresh mozzarella top it all off. The pizza is sweet and wonderful. The mozzarella is just salty enough to combat the almost dessert-like aspect of the butternut squash puree. And the mushrooms? Well, I don't really like mushrooms to be honest (not that it stops me from ordering something that otherwise sounds other-earthly...). Rich, sweet, salty, and a little kick from the black pepper. I was quite full, so I had to take it to go, and let's just say I haven't looked forward to leftovers this much in a long time. And, I was disappointed I couldn't finish it right then and there, because, while every physical instinct was telling me to stop, that I was full, that if I have another bite I might explode like Oprah did when she created that balloon effigy filled with potato chips and pretzels and made it explode on television after she had lost all that weight, every mental instinct, every ounce of dopamine in my body, every thought in my mind was telling me to continue. It was that good. (To be honest, I'm munching on it right now... still glowing!)
So why zero otto nove? That translates to 089, which is the area code for Salerno, a seaside town in Italy (and home to my grandfather's family!). This is where the chef, Roberto Paciullo, emigrated from. And thank goodness he did!
**(He also owns Roberto, one of my favorite restaurants in Little Italy, and a crowd favorite as well, which makes getting a seat rather difficult. More traditional Italian is found here, and it's scrumptious if you're willing to deal with the usually long wait. But you can easily have a glass of delectable wine (or a trendy cocktail, whichever you prefer) while you're conversing with good friends, so in my book, it's all good, and definitely worthwhile.)